In the Quiet Beauty of the World by Laura Jaworski, Illustrated by Shelley Hanmo Qian 💕

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I’m thrilled to announce the publication of my ninth children’s book, In the Quiet Beauty of the World! Illustrated by the amazing Shelley Hanmo Qian with 100% recycled material, this book is a love song to nature and a celebration of our wonderful world.

I want to give a huge thanks to Shelley for bringing the story to life in such a unique, delightful fashion, and another thank you to everyone for all of the support—it is so very appreciated. And without further ado… In the Quiet Beauty of the World, now available on Amazon! 💕

Created with GIMP
Created with GIMP

“In the quiet beauty of the world, the tall pines dance, bending and swaying to the wind’s gentle tune.”

From author Laura Jaworski and artist Shelley Hanmo Qian comes In the Quiet Beauty of the World, a book lovingly dedicated to our beautiful earth and all who call it home. There are animals and insects, trees and flowers, mountains and rivers, and there’s you—a wonderful part of it all.

Illustrated with 100% recycled materials, In the Quiet Beauty of the World is a love song to nature and a celebration of the magnificent thing we call life.

Join us for this tale.


The Chipmunk & the Pumpkin by Laura Jaworski (@bugburrypond) 🎃

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“On a crisp October evening
In a cozy little patch
A chipmunk found a pumpkin
In a tuft of autumn grass

He built a door and windows
And a chimney made of stone
Then he hugged that little pumpkin
As he whispered, welcome home!”

Laura Jaworski

34 Fall Quotes to Celebrate the Beauty of the Season 🍂

The Pumpkin Gnome Free Crochet Pattern by Laura Jaworski (@bugburrypond) 🎃

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This pumpkin gnome stands approximately 8 inches tall and is suitable for all crocheters. I hope you enjoy this pattern, and if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski so I can share your creations.

Happy crocheting & happy autumn! 🎃

The Pumpkin Gnome Free Crochet Pattern PDF:

The Pumpkin Gnome Free Crochet PatternDownload

Skill Level: Easy

Size:

This gnome stands approximately 8 inches tall when made with a size 4 hook and worsted weight yarn.

Supplies:

Worsted weight yarn (tan, brown, orange, white, green)
4.0 mm hook
Safety eyes (6mm, or to your preference)
Needle for sewing
Polyester or other stuffing
Stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to count rounds
Scissors
Glue

Abbreviations:

MC = Magic circle
St = Stitch
Sc = Single crochet (double crochet stitch in UK & Australia)
Puff = Puff stitch (see pattern notes)
Sl st = Slip stitch
Rep = Repeat
Inc = Increase
2tog = Crochet two together, also known as decrease
Ch1 = Chain one
F/o = Finish off

A note about the magic circle:

Also known as a magic loop or magic ring. If you prefer not to use a magic circle, simply create a slip knot, chain two, and begin by placing your first round of stitches into the first chain. Pull tight on your tail to close the gap and continue with the pattern as written. Once you have worked a few more rows, weave your yarn tail back and forth on the underside to secure your piece and close any remaining gap.

A note about working in a spiral:

This little gnome is worked in a spiral which means that each round continues into the next without a slip stitch and chain. You will not turn your work while making this project.

A note about counting stitches: Using a stitch marker, safety pin, or small piece of yarn to mark the first stitch of each round will help you track your progress. Move the marker as you complete each round. If you find you have too many, or too few stitches, don’t worry! You can add an increase or decrease, or simply continue on with the pattern, adjusting the stitch count as necessary. As long as you generally keep to the pattern, there’s no need to pull out your work and start over.

A note about BLO:

For the back loop only row, you will work all of your stitches into the back loop of each stitch. For all other rows, work into both loops of each stitch.

A note about increasing and decreasing:

For an increase, crochet two stitches in the same stitch. For a decrease, crochet two stitches together, preferably using the invisible decrease method.

A note about securing your crochet:

After closing your magic circle and working a few additional rows, weave your yarn tail back and forth on the underside of your crochet so that your piece is nicely secure. If you like, you can also knot the yarn tail.

A note about gauge:

The size of your gnome will be determined by a number of factors; your hook, the yarn you’ve chosen, and even how tightly or loosely you crochet can significantly change the size of your amigurumi.

A note about reading the pattern:

Before beginning a pattern, it helps to read through the abbreviations list. If you need help with a technique, refer to a written or video tutorial, or keep a crochet book handy. Below is a row from the pattern, followed by a detailed description of the instructions.

Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)

Beginning round four, add one single crochet into each of the next two stitches. Add two single crochet stitches in the following stitch. Repeat the pattern of one single crochet in each of the next two stitches followed by an increase until you reach the end of round four. There should be 24 stitches in your completed round.

A note about your closing technique:

When you’ve reached the end of your piece, snip the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Next, pull the yarn tail up through the loop and thread it on your needle. Insert the needle under the front loop of the next stitch, working from the center to the outside; pull your yarn tail through. Continue around in this manner, inserting your hook into the front loop of each stitch from the center. When you’ve woven your tail around the circle, pull tight, knot the yarn or weave the yarn to secure, and hide it in the body of your completed piece. This technique will give you a nice, nearly invisible close.

A note about the invisible finish technique:

For the invisible finish technique, complete the last stitch of your pattern. Snip your yarn, leaving a tail long enough for sewing. Pull the loop on your hook, drawing the snipped yarn tail free. Next, thread the yarn tail onto your needle; skip the next stitch and bring your yarn tail through both loops of the following stitch. Bring your yarn tail through the back loop of the last stitch of your final crochet round, pulling until you’ve created a v that is comparable in size to the rest of your stitches. Weave your yarn tail on the backside of your piece to secure.

A note about the puff stitch:

To crochet the puff stitch, yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch space, yarn over, pull up a loop, *yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop* 4 times (11 loops on hook), yarn over, and draw through all loops on hook. Complete each puff stitch with a chain one.

A note about customizing:

Crochet this festive gnome in a variety of fall colors and make as many pumpkins as you like to decorate his hat. Or perhaps you’d like to make an entire patch for him to sit in—it’s all up to you.

Now let’s get started!

Head & Body (beginning at the top, with tan yarn):

Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 6: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)
Rnd 7-12: 1sc in each st for 6 rounds (36)
Rnd 13: 4sc then 2tog, rep (30)
Rnd 14: 3sc then 2tog, rep (24)
(Add your safety eyes between rounds 9 & 10 with four stitches between each eye)
Rnd 15: 2sc then 2tog, rep (18)
(Stuff your gnome head, you can continue to stuff as you make the body)
Rnd 16: 1sc then 2tog, rep (12)
(Change to brown yarn color)
Rnd 17: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 18: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 19: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 20: 1sc in each st (30)
Rnd 21: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)
Rnd 22-24: 1sc in each st for 3 rounds (36)
Rnd 25: 5sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (42)
Rnd 26-28: 1sc in each st for 3 rounds (42)
Rnd 29: 5sc then 2tog, rep (36)
Rnd 30: 1sc in each st (36)
Rnd 31: 4sc then 2tog, rep (30)
(Begin stuffing your body, you can continue stuffing as you go. Be careful not to overstuff the bottom so your gnome will sit flat)
Rnd 32: 3sc then 2tog, rep (24)
Rnd 33: BLO 2sc then 2tog, rep (18)
Rnd 34: 1sc then 2tog, rep (12)
Rnd 35: 2tog 6 times (6)
Snip your yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave your yarn tail around the six remaining stitches using the FLO closing technique described in the notes. Pull tight, knot your yarn or weave to secure, and hide the yarn tail inside the body, pulling up slightly and securing the yarn so your gnome sits flat.

Nose (with tan yarn):
Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 3sc in the next st, 2sc, rep (10)
Rnd 3: sc in each st (10)
Rnd 4: 2tog 5 times (5)
F/o, leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave your yarn tail around the six remaining stitches and pull to close. Knot your yarn. If you plan to hot glue the nose to your gnome, hide the remaining tail & snip the yarn as necessary.

Hands & Arms (beginning with hands, with tan yarn, make two):

Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2-3: 1sc in each st for 2 rounds (6)
(Change to brown yarn, tie tails together & stuff lightly into hands)
Rnd 4-12: 1sc in each st for 9 rounds (6)
F/o, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the arms.

Sleeve Cuffs (with brown yarn, make two):

Chain 7, f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. You can add or subtract a chain if needed.

Hat (with brown yarn):

Rnd 1: MC with 3sc (3)
Rnd 2: 2sc then 2sc in the next st (4)
Rnd 3: 1sc in each st (4)
Rnd 4: 3sc then 2sc in the next st (5)
Rnd 5: 4sc then 2sc in the next st (6)
Rnd 6-12: 1sc in each st for 7 rounds (6)
Rnd 13: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (9)
Rnd 14: 1sc in each st (9)
Rnd 15: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (12)
Rnd 16: 1sc in each st (12)
Rnd 17: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 18: 1sc in each st (18)
Rnd 19: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 20: 1sc in each st (24)
Rnd 21: 3sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (30)
Rnd 22: 1sc in each st (30)
Rnd 23: 4sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (36)
Rnd 24-26: 1sc in each st for 3 rounds (36)
Rnd 27: 5sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (42)
Rnd 28: 1sc in each st (42)
Rnd 29: 5sc (switch to orange yarn on the 5th sc, that stitch should be brown), with orange yarn: sc, puff, sc (switch to brown on the last sc, that stitch should be orange), with brown yarn: 4sc (switch to orange yarn on the 4th sc, that stitch should be brown), sc, puff, sc (switch to brown on the last sc, that stitch should be orange), with brown yarn sc 12 (switch to orange yarn on the 12th sc), sc, puff, sc (switch to brown on the last sc), sc 4 (switch to orange on the last sc), sc, puff, sc (switch to brown on the last sc) sc 5 (42)

Snip your yarn. Complete your hat using the invisible finish technique, then weave your yarn tail on the underside of the hat to secure.

For the pumpkin vines on your gnome’s hat, cut four lengths of green yarn approximately three inches a piece. Thread one strand of yarn on your needle and pull it around the top of a puff stitch. Weave your yarn tails into the back of the hat to secure. Attach one vine to each of the four puff stitches.

Pumpkin #1 (with orange yarn, make two):

Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
(Note: leaving a small gap in your magic circle will make it easier to shape the pumpkin)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3-6: 1sc in each stitch for 4 rows (12)
(Stuff your pumpkin)
Rnd 7: 2tog 6 times (6)
F/o, leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave your yarn tail around the six remaining stitches and pull to close, leaving a small gap to shape the pumpkin.

Pumpkin #1 Stem (with brown yarn, make two):

Ch3, ss in second chain from hook, ss in next chain, f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Pumpkin #2 (with orange yarn):

Rnd 1: MC with 6sc (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: 1sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (18)
Rnd 4: 2sc then 2sc in the next st, rep (24)
Rnd 5-9: 1sc in each st for 5 rows (24)
Rnd 10: 2sc then 2tog, rep (18)
Rnd 11: 1sc then 2tog, rep (12)
(Stuff your pumpkin)
Rnd 12: 2tog 6 times (6)
F/o, leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave your yarn tail around the six remaining stitches and pull to close, leaving a small gap to shape the pumpkin.

Pumpkin #2 Stem (with brown yarn):

Rnd 1: MC with 3sc (3)
Rnd 2-3: 1sc in each st for two rows (3)
F/o and leave a long tail for sewing.

Finishing your pumpkins:

Shaping your pumpkins:

To shape your pumpkin, thread the yarn tail with your needle. Next, pull your yarn tail through the bottom gap of your pumpkin and up through the top center of your magic circle. Pull tight, then wrap the yarn around the side of your pumpkin and bring it through the bottom gap and up through your magic circle again. Pull tight; this will create the first line. To create the second line, wrap your yarn around the opposite side of your pumpkin and bring your needle through the bottom gap and up through the magic circle once more; pull tight. Repeat these steps for the last two lines of the pumpkin, creating four equal segments.

Attaching the stems:

Stitch your stems over the top center of your pumpkins, catching a piece of the stitch directly beneath the stem, followed by a piece of the stem, until they are nicely secure.

For pumpkin #1, you may find it easier to simply bring the yarn tails of your stems from the top of your pumpkin and out the bottom. Tie the yarn tails and hide them in the body of your pumpkin.

For additional pumpkin sizes & hay bales, see my Mini Pumpkin Patch Free Crochet Pattern.

Finishing Your Gnome:

Attaching the beard:

Begin by cutting 45 pieces of white yarn, approximately 7 inches each. To add the beard, start at the second to last row of the head and attach six strands, centered between the eyes. (To attach a strand, insert your hook behind the post of a stitch, pull the yarn through at its center, then pull the tail ends through the center loop.) Add your strands, working your way up to the last row directly under the eyes as follows: 8, 10, 10, 10. Note: for the last row closest to the eyes, leave 1-2 stitches free between the eyes so you have a gap to add the nose. You may need to add an extra strand to one side of the top row in order to even out the beard, bringing your count up to 11. After you’ve attached your gnome’s pumpkin to his hands, trim your gnome’s beard so it’s even.

Attaching the nose:

Stitch or carefully hot glue the nose to your gnome in the small gap in his beard. The top of his nose should be level with the top of round 9.

Attaching the sleeve cuffs:

Wrap your chained piece around the arm between rounds three and four so the color change is covered. Tie the yarn tails at the back, then stitch the cuff down around the arm using one of the tails. Hide the yarn tails in the back of the arm to secure.

Attaching the arms:

Attach your arms on either side of your gnome. The top of each arm should be level with the top of round 18. Once your arms are secure and the beard is complete, stitch or carefully hot glue pumpkin #2 between your gnome’s hands.

Shaping the hat:

To shape your gnome’s hat, begin at the top and tightly roll until you’ve reached your desired shape. Stitch to secure or carefully hot glue. You can roll the hat tightly or leave a small hole depending on your preference. Stitch or hot glue two or more of pumpkin #1 to the hat if desired. Sew or hot glue the hat to your gnome’s head. You may need to stretch it out slightly to fit.

And now you’re done! I hope you enjoy this pumpkin gnome & if you post pictures, please hashtag #laurajaworski so I can share your work! You can find me @bugburrypond on Instagram, Facebook, & Pinterest.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

Happy crocheting, happy autumn, and have a beautiful day. 💕

Laura

If you share this pattern, please credit appropriately and link back to the original post.

This pattern is for personal use only.

Copyright © 2021 Laura Jaworski, The Pumpkin Gnome Free Crochet Pattern. All rights reserved.